Boreal Unisex's Joker Plus Sneakers

Product Information

The fit is basically the same between the two models despite the slightly different soles and rands. Scarpa has a massive range of climbing shoes, and one of the interesting ways they distinguish between models is by fit.

Have also noticed the dead space / loose material just below the laces. Seems a bit of a sloppy design (for my feet anyway) but not sure it’s an issue for climbing. The Instinct S uses Scarpa's FJ last, which differs slightly (but not significantly) from the FV last used in the Instinct VS and VSR. Overall I'd say that if those two shoes fit you, so too will the Instinct S. Size-wise I'm exactly the same in all three models, so you shouldn't have to change sizes either (which makes things nice and easy). Haven’t really noticed the heel feeling any different. A bit less volume on the outside so perhaps better for smaller heel hooks. The Engage lace is a medium to narrow width, with a pretty regular volume. Being fully laced, this shoe will adapt to lots of different foot types and you can reduce the volume. However, if you have a wide foot you may struggle. As ever with footwear, try before you buy. Summary: On my narrow feet the LV version is a much better fit. There is no bagging in the forefoot and the ankle cuff fits under the ankle bone much better than the original Flagship, which dig my ankles a bit.As per the comments above, it's a bit of a minefield as what works for one person won't necessarily work for another - it all comes down to fit and personal preference. If your item is super urgent, please drop us a message at support@dyno-climbing or on our live chat and we’ll see what can be done. FREE DELIVERY

On the whole, always hard to tell after just a few sessions but I’d say it’s not much different to the original Anasazis (other than the sizing). Then again, I thought the same about the new Anasazis, which some people didn’t like apparently. May be my footwork is so bad that I can’t tell the difference 🤣 The Flagship LV has a lower volume, is a bit narrower (both around the forefoot and the heel) and has a lower cuff around the ankle than the original Flagship, but that's not the only change - the sizing also differs (which is definitely something to be aware of). I have a UK5 in the original Flagship and so got a UK5 in the Low Volume version, assuming it would feel smaller; however, I should have gone for the half, or even full size smaller, and I'd highly recommend doing this if it's outright performance that you're after. The Flagship LV seems larger than the full volume version for a given size, and in the future I would definitely go for the plastic bag approach with this shoe to get the most out of its features. Even just being half a size too big has meant that the heel slips on easily and in some cases slips off too. I have really enjoyed wearing a slightly bigger shoe. Warming up in them and wearing them for everything has worked well, plus they've been great for smearing. The new Vapour V uses Scarpa's 'FR' last, which is the lowest volume in the range. When it comes to width it's realistically on the regular to narrow end of the spectrum. The sizing is - I am happy to say - in line with other Scarpa models, which is usually one (European) size down from your street shoe size. The uppers are made from lined microfibre, which certainly gives the NIAD a comfortable feel. Five Ten believe the use of this material helps the shoe to 'maintain a consistent fit,' whereas in reality the shoe's shape changes considerably over time. That's not to say this is a bad thing – the Anasazi always changed over time, and as previously mentioned, what this means is that the shoe's purpose changes too: from an edging machine to a sensitive smearer.

The rubber is Stealth C4 and I personally believe there's nothing better. It gives me the confidence to use the most marginal smears, or commit to horrible slopey volumes indoors. This has been a large contributing factor to Five Ten's success over the years and the NIAD Lace is no exception. Sizing - this has definitely changed from the original and is probably the same as the updated Anasazis, i.e. I need to go up half a size.

While superficially nearly identical to the Quantic, the Quantix SF actually have some quite different things going on under the hoodThe Satori features a three-quarter length midsole which comes halfway up the arch of your foot. This allows the shoes to flex a lot, giving maximum power in the toe, whilst still providing some support for climbing routes. The level of support and stiffness which a midsole provides can easily be seen through Boreal's current trilogy of shoes: the Dharma features a full midsole and is the stiffest and most supportive shoe (best for routes), the Satori features the three-quarter length midsole allowing it to flex more and provide some support (routes/bouldering) and the Synergy doesn't have a midsole, allowing it flex a lot, giving lots of power and softness but little support (ideal for bouldering). There's obviously a bit more detail involved than that but it does give a nice demonstration of the power of the midsole! Choosing the right size climbing shoe is the most difficult aspect of buying climbing shoes online - a pair of shoes that fit well will improve performance more than any other bit of equipment you own, and so getting the right size is important.

Revised tongue construction is lighter, more breathable and retains its shape and positioning through the additional elastic in the closure. Alpha features the same super-comfortable semi-asymmetric last as the top-selling Joker model. A low tension rand means there is less unwanted pressure on the foot and the shoe retains shape over time. The unlined microfibre upper feels comfortable next to the skin straight from the box.These shoes do feel more 'old school' than some of the equivalents from other brands, but I think they will work for people that have been used to a more traditionally constructed climbing shoe and particularly those whohave fond memories of less techy FiveTen shoes from a decade or so ago. As per my comments on Zenith Quattro within the relatively recent review of the Boreal Beta and Beta Eco, it wasn't - in my opinion - the grippiest; however, it was, in turn, much more durable. You can't have everything and Boreal have designed that compound with longevity in mind.