Joined in 2023 
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Warm Reminded: The max power of this power supply is 200W, so please make sure that the power of the electrical appliances should be less than 200W of the rated power of the inverter Makita battery connectors – you could also print it. I’ve manage to find genuine parts in Poland for 2EUR Schottky diode – 25V+ 20A+ (I’ve used 20SQ045 – 45V, 20A – bigger would be better, this is what I had at hand)
To connect battery holders with the box itself, you should have some M3, 10mm (perfect length – can be longer) long bolts and nuts Compact LED Nightlight: Featuring a 450LM LED work light, with its compact size (4 x 3 x 4in) and lightweight 0.7LB, this portable battery inverter is a great gadget for outdoor power solution and outdoor camping light, and you can store it anywhereSafe and Secure: Equipped with a small fan and ventilation holes to increase the heat dissipation function. The power station provides short-circuit, over-current, under-voltage, over-voltage, over-load, low-load, over-heat, over-drain protection Anyway, I assume Makita batteries (5Ah or more) can provide 20A current easily. I haven’t tested more, but quality 18650 cells are usually rated 20A-30A. There can be some limitation for electronics inside battery – so 20A is my limit. Printable version of battery holder and the box itself I’ve put on Thigiverse. This is assembled version printed in PLA with “old” type switches I could step up voltage to 24V or step it down to around 12-13V (later I’ll write why). Since 12V inverter will be more useful to me, because I can also use it at my car, I’ve decided to go for step down. Powered by (1) 18V LXT® battery with the option to insert (1) additional battery for extended run time (batteries sold separately)
Since my load is able only to withstand 150W – I was unable to set 20A@13V at DC-DC converter, but I’ve just lowered voltage to 5V and then I could set 20A on load. Four switches – mine proved to be too crappy – one broke and short circuit the battery melting the wires – needed to replace them later I guess the Battery charger really didn't help save my life. It couldn't have. There was no reception anyway. But I was still happy to have a cell phone with an OK charge when I woke up in the hospital. I was able to ignore some of my pain and the disorienting effects of the heavy pain killers they were pumping into my body intravenously, because I could listen to my favorite Merle Haggard album on the MP3s inside of the phone. I finally knew that I was going to revocer and I was going to survive my accident when I was able to just listen to that darned Merle album. That song where he sings about how the "best part of dyin' is livin' real good" was just what I needed in that moment. It helped me make the decision to live. The charger also has a belt clip that feels strong but I didn't use this. Honestly I think it would hold up to 5ah batteries, it's just too bulky to have in your belt and walk around. The figment was very tight to the Makita 5ah battery I tested, actually nice to see this since some brands have very loose connections. No issues removing or connecting the battery. connect battery connector positive line to switch (if you have it with diode – like I do – you also need to provide negative/ground one)
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As an aggregator you could use Wago (left on picture above) connectors (they should withstand the current, despite they are not rated for it) – but I’ve used connector (two on the right side of the picture above) design to be used in mains line boxes rated for 80A. You should also try to, as precise as you can, set up every step down converter to the same voltage levels. Recommended load is 15A (small print), so around 180W. I’ve prepared additional cooling, so I guess it should manage to go to 20A peak at 13V (240W-250W). Compatible with Makita: Fits for all Makita 18V max lithium batteries, turning your Makita battery into a small generator (Battery is NOT included) Some final words. I’ve tested this device under long term load (like 200W) for 2 hours continuously – I haven’t observed any problems. I’ve tested it for few minutes with around 800-900W load (meter showed almost 90Amps on output) – all wires and electronic was fine. But of course, main wires were getting hot. So I can say this device is definitely working.
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